Chapter 1 – Kailua-Kona
‘Hey Bruddah, wheah you from?’
‘California. San Jose.’
The voice was friendly, but held a hint of
mockery. A local, sitting with his buddies drinking beers in the shade
of a nearby doorway, had apparently noted the M-dot logo on the towel
I was carrying and decided to have some fun with the tri-geek.
‘You gon’ run de I-ohn-man?’
‘Yep.’
‘You gonna ween it oah what?’
I laughed out loud. ‘No, I’m not gonna win. I’ll
be lucky to finish.’
I had a smile on my face, but inside a nasty
voice added a vicious coda. ‘You’ll be lucky to survive’. I quashed
the thought, and reassured myself with the same mantra I’d been
telling myself all week; ‘you’ll be fine’. I left the Hawaiian and his
buddies to finish their beers.
It was a couple days before the race, and the
small tourist town of Kailua-Kona was abuzz with the vibe. Everywhere
you looked, at any time of day or night, you could see some super fit
individual running, or biking, or swimming. As a lottery entrant, I
was somewhat inoculated against the pressure, but by no means immune.
There was quite simply no escaping the fact that in a few days, I’d be
attempting to swim 2.4mi in the ocean, ride 112mi thru the hot, windy
lava fields, and top it all off with a 26.2mi run thru those same lava
fields. It’s a grueling test of endurance and will, and they don’t
call it the Ironman for nothing.
I’d gone the distance before, but never on this
course. Three years before, in Canada, the gods saw fit to look over
me as I forced myself into a lake with 1,993 other athletes and tried
to keep myself from backing out of the race before the cannon even
went off. I managed to make myself start, and somehow made it out of
the water less than 3min before the 2:20 cutoff, and went on to finish
the bike, and the run, and became an Ironman.
But Kona is different, special. Kona is the
Ironman, where the roads have been baptized with the sweat of
thousands, paved with sacrifice, where Pele has crowned champions and
crushed pretenders, where agony and ecstasy merge over 17hrs into one
blurry kaleidoscope of suffering, sacrifice and triumph. It’s where
Julie Moss baptized the course with her pain, crawling over the line
and into history. It’s where Dave Scott and Mark Allen dueled for
138mi in 1989, in the race forever after known as the ‘Ironwar’. It’s
where Rick and Dick Hoyt have given inspiration to thousands with the
depth of their bond and commitment to each other. And it’s where every
year, hundreds of athletes duke it out for the age group
championships, for bragging rights and an automatic return visit the
following year. The distance is the distance, but . . . Kona is
special.
I’d gotten into the race as a lottery winner,
the system that guarantees that an ‘everyman’ like me can toe the line
with the pros and see how they measure up against all that accumulated
myth and mystique. There were 200 of us ‘everymen’ in the race, and
the other 1500 or so had earned their way here by qualifying at
another race during the year. So the vast majority of those in the
field were fast, serious folks, many of whom were quite serious about
vying for the overall title in their age group. As a result, what
would usually be a relaxed, sleepily idyllic tropical tourist town had
an edgy, competitive vibe to it.
There might have been a few bona fide tourists
in town, with nothing to do with the race, but they were by far the
minority. Almost everyone I saw had a race t-shirt, or an m-dot (the
Ironman logo) tattoo, or some other triathlon-specific bit of attire.
And everyone, myself included, gave everyone else ‘the look’; a quick
once-over that asked, “Is this guy/girl in the race? Looks pretty fit
. . . tan lines . . . Livestrong bracelet” (if there was anybody
racing who didn’t have a LS bracelet, I didn’t see ‘em). By Wednesday
afternoon, it got easier – I’d just look for the orange bracelet
locked around each racer’s wrist at registration. I gave a small,
knowing smile to everyone I saw who was racing, but in most cases all
I got in return was a stone game face –everybody was so damn serious
here.
Carissa and I arrived in town late Tuesday
night, after a typically Ron-like odyssey. We’d made all of our travel
and lodging arrangements months before, but had somehow neglected to
secure a rental car. On Monday evening, planning to board our flight
the following morning, we tried to reserve a car and to our horror
realized the depth of our mistake – there were no cars to be had.
Since we weren’t staying in Kailua-Kona, but had instead rented a
private cottage 12mi south of town for the week, this was definitely
not good. After an increasingly stressful 2-3 hours of internet
searches, multiple phone calls, and praying-while-dialing, we finally
managed to locate a car . . . in Hilo, on the other side of the
island. We looked at the bus schedules from Kailua-Kona to Hilo, and
realized that Hawaii is a tad less commuter friendly than the Bay
Area; there was one bus, which went to Hilo in the morning, and came
back to Kona in the evening. We finally decided that our only real
option was to call the airline first thing in the morning to see if we
could change our flights to Hilo.
The following morning, we had a couple of stops
to make before heading to the airport. We had to drop Jocelyn off at
grandma’s house, and drop the pets off at the kennel for boarding.
While I worked my way around San Jose in rush hour traffic, CTB called
the airline and changed our tickets. It cost us quite a pretty penny,
but at least we were now assured of transportation when we got to the
island, and I breathed a little easier.
The flight was uneventful, albeit boring and
long, but we eventually found ourselves in Hilo, found our expensive
car, and set off for the 2 hour drive around the island to the place
we should have been all along. Fate put us in the right place at the
right time, and we wound up giving a lift to a young girl who’d been
stranded in Hilo and needed to go to Kona. She had just left her job
at Bike Friday in Portland and bought a ticket to the island to visit
her aunt, but evidently hadn’t realized there were multiple airports,
and when we overheard her phone conversation with her aunt (who was
waiting for her at the Kona Airport), we offered a lift. We all wound
up chatting for the entire drive, which made the time pass quickly,
and after dropping her off at a restaurant right near Lava Java (just
off Alii Drive) we made our way to our cottage for some much-deserved
rest.
The cottage was beautiful – CTB really hit a
homerun with her internet search. It was dark when we arrived, so we
didn’t get a full sense of how lucky we’d been until the sun rose
Wednesday morning, and a breathtaking vista opened up for us, right
off of our lanai (Hawaiian veranda/porch). We were perched on a
hillside above Kealakekua (Kay-ah-lah-kuh-koo-ah) Bay, with nothing
below our lanai but lush tropical forest. Birds were our alarm clock,
and we awoke every morning by 7am, feeling well rested and refreshed,
ready for the day’s adventures. We had a kitchenette, lounging area,
the lanai, a huge whirlpool tub, a two-headed shower with plenty of
room for both of us (ahem) . . . in short, it was a beautiful refuge
and we’re definitely going to try to book the place again when/if we
return next year, so I’m not telling any of you where it is or how to
find it <G>.
Despite the long flight, we awoke early Wed
morning and went to breakfast at The Aloha Angel café. Over a
leisurely breakfast of eggs and potatoes, we took in the views, and
tried to make friends with the gecko who sat at our table. He was a
bit aloof, however, so we never got his name. A torrential, tropical
downpour came through as we ate, but in true Hawaiian fashion it was
over, and the sun was out, before we’d finished our meal.
We drove into town, and took care of the
necessities; I went thru registration, we hit the expo, I bought a
bunch of schwag, and recorded my athlete video greeting. At one point
in the day, we ran into someone wearing a tri-drs ‘Carpe Viam’ shirt,
and I immediately buttonholed him and began chatting his ear off. It
was Gerard Linde, who was very nice and patient with my eager
intrusion into his day. After a brief chat, we said goodby and went
our separate ways.
We then headed over for the mandatory pre-race
meeting (and evidently a lot of folks didn’t understand the meaning of
the word ‘mandatory’). It was the usual stuff, and not really much new
to report. We found out where to come for bodymarking, that we should
be at the venue early, and got a rundown on the race rules from
Charlie C.
After that, we went to Costco to get some
groceries, and then the day was pretty much over. I’d hoped to get in
a swim, and get a feel for the water before the race, but . . . that
didn’t happen. I’d have to get in the water Thursday or Friday.
Thursday started much the same. After some
puttering around, CTB and I went to the Ultrafit Open House, where I
got to meet Coach KP for the first time, and got my much-needed dose
of Gordo calm. clm showed up and informed me that there was a pool
going on (a) whether I’d make it out of the water and (b) what my time
would be. She informed me that she had me down for 1:41 – a vote of
confidence that I found very comforting, if a tad optimistic. All too
quickly we had to duck out, though, and go pick up my parents at the
airport. From there, it was a family day, as we visited and caught up
on each other’s lives.
I had planned to go for a swim in the evening,
but as I walked along Alii with my parents, the surf was very active,
with respectable waves crashing in, and it looked too daunting for me
to get in. After all, the whole point of the pre-race swim was to
build my confidence, not destroy it! So I took a pass, and instead
headed off to the carbo dinner while my parents and CTB had dinner at
Bubba Gumps.
The carbo dinner was nice, and since I hadn’t
bought a ticket for CTB, I was going stag. I found a table with
several empty seats, and sat down. A few minutes later, a group of 4
or 5 Dutch triathletes joined me, and in an uncanny coincidence,
Gerard Linde sat down right next to me. Neither of us realized it
until I glanced at him, and then did a double take – “Gerard?” . He
did his own double take, and then I spent a nice 30min or so chatting
with him and his buddies, and Gerard took a couple of photos for
posterity.
I ducked out of the dinner early (which I now
sorely regret, after hearing about the fact that Dave Scott and Mark
Allen were at the dinner) to get back to my family, and then we all
went to the airport to pick up my sister. The whole family was in
town, just to see me do my thing. No pressure <G>.
The day wound up from there, and I thought about
the fact that once again, I hadn’t gotten into the water. I would
have to get into the water the following morning – I wasn’t about
to do that swim without having a chance to acclimate to the
conditions.
For that reason, the next day I arose at 6:00a,
gave CTB a peck on the cheek, then headed to the pier for a short swim
while she had breakfast and put herself together (not a quick process
- she is a girl, after all).
When I got to the pier, about 6:45, there were
dozens of folks already there. I didn’t mind the company, but the surf
looked just like it had the night before; very active, with large
swells. (A local later told me that the swells were 4-6 feet, and that
he could tell it was up from the number of surfers in the water). This
was not good - twinges of my old deep water fear were asserting
themselves, and I was pretty scared and uncomfortable. But I would not
allow myself to face the water for the first time on race day, so I
went ahead and checked my clothes at the (free) Gatorade clothes
check, and headed into the water.
The water temperature wasn’t bad – just the
slightest big cool as I waded in. When I got up to my waist, I pulled
my mask down over my eyes, gave it a firm press to seal it, (heh heh –
‘Seal’ my Seal Mask . . . get it? Heh . . . never mind) and then dived
in.
Right away, panic started clawing at me. A few
waves smacked me in the face when I went to breathe, and filled my
mouth with foul salt water. I treaded water as I spit and sputtered,
then struck out again in my slow freestyle stroke.
The turnaround buoy was now in the water, a
miniscule orange dot far away on the horizon. I tried not to think
about that, and instead picked a closer buoy, perhaps 100M away, as my
goal point – no sense in tiring my arms out the day before the race,
and all I really wanted was a taste of the conditions and (ideally) a
chance to sink into a rhythm and gain some confidence in the open
ocean. But it was not to be; the swells were screwing with my mind,
badly, and the whole 20min or so I was in the water was one long fight
with my habitual panic. I made it to the buoy I’d chosen, however, and
returned to the beach, profoundly shaken and knowing that I’d be
spending the rest of the day feeding myself positive affirmations to
fight off the fear of what was to come the following day. If this was
a boxing match, I’d just lost the pre-fight staredown, big time.
As the race got closer, I’d become more
ill-at-ease, unsettled and uncomfortable. But now, for the first time,
I was terrified.
And there was no backing out.
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